On the Street….Viale Piave, Milan
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Author Archives: The Sartorialist
On the Street…. Dr. J…Peskowitz, Milan & Paris
Style Profile… Holli Rogers
Have you always worked in fashion?
I started in the Neiman Marcus buying office which eventually led to my current role as Buying Director of Net-a-Porter.
Did you have any early influences that sparked your interest in clothes?
My 7th grade science teacher never wore the same outfit twice. That’s always stuck in my head and has encouraged me to dress differently every day.
What do you read to begin your day?
I read The Economist and The Cut for daily updates and love flicking through UK or Australian ELLE Décor. However, I am obsessed with Assouline books at the moment, especially the Chanel leather-bound set by Francois Baudot & Francois Aveline!
Favorite shops to browse?
I love browsing unusual antique & interiors shops – my favorites include Flair in Florence, BDDW & John Derian in New York, and Alfies Antique Market in Marylebone. For a sweet indulgence I love Todos Santos Chocolates & Confections in Santa Fe, New Mexico…it’s heavenly.
Do you collect any particular antiques?
I started picking up sculptures of hands on my travels, I now have quite a selection from across the globe– there are so many different styles. They’re really interesting and unusual interior decorations, not to mention a great conversation topic!
Most visually inspiring place?
Big Sur in California, it’s endlessly breathtaking to see nature at its purest.
What do you always have on hand when traveling?
A good pair of sunglasses is vital for long travel days; I like Thierry Lasry’s cat-eye frame glasses.
Do you use shoe trees?
Saint Crispin’s hand-made trees are the ultimate travel friendly shoe trees because they’re hollow and super light.
Cherish any particular heirloom pieces?
A vintage white fur coat that my mother gave to me, and a certain sequin dress from One Vintage.
If you had a uniform, what would it be?
A pair of Isabel Marant wedge trainers, boxy tweeds and slouchy silk collarless shirts from Theysken’s Theory, and Hawaiian print pants from Stella. I find that adding a pop of color to any outfit peps me up ready for anything – at the moment I’m finding that in neon separates.
Signature drink?
The Bowery Hotel in NY makes a killer margarita.
Most stylish movie(s)?
Some of my favorites include Scorsese’s Casino and Blow Up by Antonini. I’m also super excited about the forthcoming Gatsby film.
Guilty pleasure you never feel guilty about?
Fine jewelry and massages: an incredible pair of earrings or a statement ring can instantly uplift a look, and massages are necessary for my fast-paced life.
On the Street…..Via Manzoni, Milan
On the Street…. Boulevard Vincent Auriol, Paris
The Sartorialist II Arrives in September 2012!
The other day I announced on Twitter the forthcoming release of my second book, The Sartorialist II, which will be available in September 2012.
I’m excited to work on another book, especially since the process and final result of the first one was so rewarding. The book signings were exhausting, but they were also a great opportunity to meet so many of my readers. I look forward to doing the whole thing all over again and making it even better this time!
With a long project like this, I think Twitter will be a great way to keep you guys updated so you can follow the process of creating a book, from the issues faced to the rewarding results.
I’m also working on a way for you to potentially contribute to the final result of The Sartorialist II, right now we’re just trying to figure out exactly what that process will be. Again, thank you for making the first book such a success, I can’t wait to complete the next.
Oh, P.S.– One of the things that I’ve been working on over the past several months has been saving some of my favorite images, instead of posting on the blog, as exclusives for the next book. Since I’m addicted to sharing the best of what I find with you, it’s really killing me to save these images instead of posting them on the blog, but I think it will make the book that much stronger!
On the Street…..Via Pancaldo, Milan
On the Street…Mr. Barbera, Florence
The Reading List…. The Modern Century
“A great deal of what is generally classified as photojournalism is in fact not reportage but illustration — a matter of providing an appropriate (attractive, somber, diverting, dramatic, comical, lively, unobtrusive) image to fill the space. The alacrity with which Cartier-Bresson could grasp the social sense of any circumstance and distill it into an image made him one of the most accomplished illustrators of the twentieth century.”
Henri Cartier-Bresson: The Modern Century
On the Street…..Lincoln Center, New York
On the Street…….Vieille du Temple, Paris
Question For…. Nick Wooster
You’re a fashion role model and Internet style icon, what do you think others see in you that has inspired this?
I can only imagine it’s because I’m willing to ‘go there’ and take chances. Getting dressed is really the only area in my life that I can say I am fearless; I’m terrified of so many things, yet somehow am not afraid to wear anything. For me it’s always been rather innate; as a 5 year old I was specific about the way everything fit, even a t-shirt.
What do you find is the biggest challenge for guys who want to look good, but don’t know where to start?
Whenever it’s out of their comfort zone, guys need a blueprint; they have an event: what do I wear? They’re going to a black tie: what does that mean? They’re going to meet their in-laws: how do I impress? I think that overall guys are interested in acquiring a wardrobe based on problem solving and finding something cool that fits into their lives.
All the young bloggers geek out about double monk strap shoes and tailoring; old school, traditional elements. Cool doesn’t necessarily mean avant-garde.
The thing that started it all was probably casual Friday– the thing that was supposed to be liberating fucked things up more than anything.
Are you now more aware of how you approach getting dressed every day?
I really don’t think about what I’m going to wear until I jump in the shower, and yet, I feel that the stakes are higher each time I make a purchase or decision about what I’m going to wear because there are several chances that it will be amplified.
I like to take risks, and not everything I wear is going to be everyone’s cup of tea. That also means I cart around gigantic overweight trunks, because I never know how I’m going to feel on a given morning. Airport check-in desks are the bane of my existence, absolute hell.
Has the amplified attention affected your self-esteem?
If anything, it’s made my self-esteem worse… I am my own harshest critic. As much as I love to wear something that’s a bit off…I’m terrified that I will be made fun of. It’s a frightening conundrum.
I love clothes, but as the season approaches I always feel the need to add new things. It’s natural because I have the opportunity to see more, which makes me want to buy more– a very expensive occupational hazard.
To be honest if I’m wearing something it’s nearly always because I bought it. I’ve certainly accepted things a long the way, but I never feel obligated to wear them. I have to intrinsically love something in order to wear it. I’m grateful to be constantly surrounded by many of the things I love.
On the Street…..quai Malaquais, Paris
Vintage Photo
Vintage Photo
This photo was taken in 1972 when my mother was 17. Her best friend dressed her up and took the photo in her home in Greens Farm, CT.
Zoë
On the Street….. Via Guelfa, Florence
Go Giants!!
On the Street….Rue Linne, Paris
On the Street…. At The Fortezza, Florence
On the Street…. At The Fortezza, Florence
The Funniest Booth at Pitti Uomo…. Andrea Pompilio
On the Street……Spring St., New York
On the Street….Via Bigli, Milan
Style Profile…. Victoire Chopinaud
Current profession?
I’m currently studying at l’Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, the fashion school in Paris where “masters” such as YSL, Dior and Vionnet came before me. They’ve taught me that it’s not just about fashion but about style, attitude, and character.
I’ve finally learned to embrace color thanks to my travels to Italy, textile studies, and work with Proenza Schouler in New York. I used to wear only black!
Do you find inspiration in any heirloom pieces?
I recently discovered fabric samples that had been used for one of my grandmother’s coats- black velvet with golden embroidery and pearls… It’s so precious, I can’t wait to re-use it!
Also, this half-season coat from my mum with a black and grey “pied-de-poule” pattern.
What would you consider your uniform?
My day-to-day warrior outfit includes a very well fitting pair of black skinny jeans, a light blue men’s shirt, and a black leather perfecto; you can always create a contrast with these pieces!
Favorite men’s shirt?
Button downs are better when they smell like and belong to a boyfriend. I have this perfect faded army shirt by Arrow and a bunch from YSL, Dior Homme and The Kooples. I wear them the ‘French way’ (aka no bra) mixing cologne from a boyfriend with Chance by Chanel, a scent I’ve been loyal to since I was 15 years old. Obviously men’s shirts are quite an intimate subject for me…
When do you experiment with your look the most?
Childhood was my experimental time, convincing my mum to let me wear combinations like bright red Doc Martens with baggy silk khaki trousers!
Do you dress for travel?
I like to dress up because it’s rather obsolete these days.
It feels good to wear heels with a high waist pencil skirt and long gloves, reminding me of the 1950s when Haute Couture would impose a “travel coat”, “travel suiting”, and “travel pajama”. I also pay attention to this when I go to a museum; making an effort to contemplate art.
Which publications keep your mind going?
Le Monde and The Economist for politics, Numero for contemporary art features, WAD for its misfit approach, and any French Vogue under the Roitfeld reign!
Are you athletic?
Winston Churchill famously said “No Sports” when asked about his health secret. I suppose I’m a bit “Churchillienne” with sports!
Never caught wearing?
Flip-flops, crocs, or loafers!
Whose style has influenced your own?
After working with Victoria Traina, I’ll always admire the way she looks and the eyes she attracts when entering a room.
Most memorable gift?
I’m really keen on the Paris-based brand The Kooples, and their magazine which features interviews with couples. One time an old boyfriend sent me a copy, it was complete with a fake interview featuring us! I often gift medals from a ‘Miraculous Chapel’ in Paris to those I feel connected to in some way.
Heels or flats?
I wear heels everyday for the allure and attitude it brings me. I always have a pair on hand, even if I know I won’t need them! My favorites are Nicholas Kirkwood, Proenza Schouler and Kurt Geiger.
Most stylish city?
Apologies to Paris and NYC, but I’m in love with Rome! Rome blows me away with its radiance, its chaos, and the art at your disposal along the ambient streets… the whole place makes me feel at home!
What advice have you actually listened to?
I keep in mind Chanel’s advice not to exceed 3 colors in one outfit.
On the Street……LaFayette St., New York
On the Street…..Rue des Hospitalières Saint-Gervais, Paris
The Reading List….The Theatre of the Face
On the Street…..Via Luca Beltrami, Milan
The Sartorialist: Lunch For 25
The Sartorialist: Lunch For 25
About a year ago, Scott and I were sitting at a small Trattoria in Florence. The place looked amazing– not only the simple and traditional decor, but also the irreproducible Italian atmosphere and overall elegance of the gentlemen.
“Doesn’t this place look like the best fashion story ever?” I asked Scott.
“Yes!” He said, “Real, cool, diverse– It’s like if all the best dressed guys I know got together for lunch….. We should just do that! Get my favorite guys together in one room, it would be so much fun. These guys have so much in common and yet, for most of them, their paths never cross. Just imagine, someone like Gianluca, with his dreadlocks and modern-minimalist aesthetic sitting next to Lino, with his old-school Italian charm…. Mr. Kurino and Simone Righi discussing their first suit, Kanye and Terron talking about whatever it is those two super funny characters could dream up… I’m just guessing, but I bet these guys would really hit it off. What a great way to forge new friendships.”
“Scott… You should do it!!!” the idea sounded fantastic to me.
And that’s what Scott did. I can tell you, I was so jealous not to be in Florence for The Inaugural Sartorialist Lunch. But, here are a few photographs and (at 4pm) a video to let you share the first of what we hope will become a biannual event that grows every year through continually increased diversity of style, and continually deeper camaraderie between friends.
Hope you enjoy,
Garance & Scott
On the Street…..Via Settembrini, Milan
The Sartorialist: Lunch for 25….Teaser
Vintage Photo
My mother is pictured here at her wedding, right outside the church in Milan back in ’73. While scanning the pictures, I was amazed to see the similarities to color modifications you see in today’s fashion ad campaigns.
Matteo
At Moncler Gamme Bleu, Milan
Where are the Hotels in Milan?
Hey guys, I always like to tell you when I find a great hotel, like the Hôtel Thoumieux in in Paris. Unfortunately, I’ve been traveling to Milan for six years and still haven’t found a good, reasonably priced hotel to call my home away from home.
I’ve stayed at the Principe- too expensive, too corporate, and when they re-designed the bar, they lost me. The Grand is certainly grand, a beautiful, great location– but the insanely slow internet makes it difficult as a top choice. Most recently I stayed at the new La Scala which unfortunately was too expensive for an upper-mid level corporate hotel with no discernible charm. The AC Milano is too far out of the center, its neighbor, the Una Hotel Tocq, located in the heart of Milan’s noisiest nightclub district, is too loud every night of the week. The Nhow, out in the Tortona art district, is even farther away, but in the opposite side of town, as the AC Milano.
I just stayed at the Cusani during Men’s in January; great location, typical corporate atmosphere, and the food simply is not up to par with any Italian standards.
So, I’m begging you…please help me find a hotel in Milan!
My dream would be old school Italian design, reliable internet, reasonably good food (especially breakfast), and located somewhere in the center of Milan.
I’m counting on you guys, I can’t wait to read the responses tomorrow and book my room right away!
On the Street….via Thaon Di Revel, Milan
The Sartorialist is Now on Facebook!
We’ve taken back control of The Sartorialist on Facebook! You can ‘like’ us to follow some diverse and fun posts to come… Now that there’s an official page, what would you like to see on there?
On the Street…….Vieille du Temple, Paris
It’s great to see a young lady from Kansas making the streets of Paris look so chic.
On the Street…….Vieille du Temple, Paris
It’s great to see a young lady from Kansas making the streets of Paris look so chic.
On the Street……Who Doesn’t Need A Cardigan, Florence
In the Pit…..Bruno Rinaldi, Milan
Bruno has been shooting fashion week for over 40 years and only three years ago switched to a digital camera. In a media world that seems to be increasingly focused on bringing uninteresting or unwanted news and images to you faster than you may want or need, Bruno is that throwback guy. He actually takes his time fine tuning his runway shots– he produces a sophisticated image rather than spewing out junk. I love how, regardless of being told that things need to be faster, faster, faster, some people can still make a living on refined, quality images.
On the Street…..Angelika, Milan
Leaving Lanvin, Part III
Leaving Lanvin, Part III
Leaving Lanvin, Part III
Leaving Lanvin, Part III
Leaving Lanvin, Part II
Style Profile… Michael Haar
Current Occupation?
Full-time Barber/ Part-time D.J.
Which era influences your style the most?
My fascination lies in the era of Vaudeville. It was sparked in college when a professor brought in some 1900’s Jazz & Blues recordings; they blew me away.
It was a curious time (approx. 1881-1920) when live entertainment was the primarily form of entertainment– It wasn’t radio, television, or talking pictures…people went out and built social skills! There was a grit and realness to it– Everything I’m into really spins off of that era.
Where was your first job?
The Metropolitan Opera—I sang in the children’s chorus when I was 9 years old. I performed in Tosca, Madame Butterfly, Ghosts of Versailles, and any other with children in them. I did that until my voice dropped.
Where were you coming from wearing those boots in the photograph above?
I rode my bike from Queens into the city that day, I don’t know if I would wear the boots now…
How has your style evolved the most?
I buy my own fabric in Manhattan, but have most of my suits custom made. However, when you start to acquire old weekend and leisure wear you know you’ve become an eccentric…
Whose style has influenced your own?
I grew up watching a lot of early MGM musicals with my father– especially Gene Kelly. I always thought he was as dashing as Fred Astaire. He liked to put his stamp into the floor when he moved as opposed to Fred’s weightless dancing.
I love old comedies as well, anything Neil Simon, Marx Bros, or Woody Allen related.
Is it challenging to work in radio at this point in time?
I never cared so much for the mainstream– I used to listen to punk rock bands and slam dance at shows during high school. Original ragtime and vaudeville walks the same lines.
Radio is great because I can listen to music that I enjoy from the turn of the 20th century, and connect with others who relish in this time period as well. Through The Ragged Phonograph Program I host, I’ve had people contact me from Canada, Australia, London, Afghanistan, and more. Through internet radio I can reach listeners all over the world!
I listen to The Big Broadcast with Rich Conaty on WFUV, and the Antique Phonograph music program with Michael Cumella on WFMU.
Daily reads?
I’m currently reading a biography on Will Rogers; a great monologist, comedian, and cowboy. He lived in my part of Queens for a nice chunk of time.
Where are you most visually inspired?
Inside of my apartment– my bathroom literally looks like an old barber museum.
What’s your grooming regimen like?
Ha! I’m a barber, I work with skin tonics all day– I never wear cologne. I do find a lot of old barbering tools and tonics; I’ll go to any antique fair I come across. Grooming would be a whole other article! (that sounds like a great idea, stay tuned…)
Never without?
A hat or a cap when I’m outdoors… and boxers, always boxers.
Never caught wearing…?
Jeans– I haven’t owned a pair of jeans since I was 19.
Do you use shoe trees?
I have old and modern shoe trees; they both work without batteries.
Do your tattoos influence how you build your daily look?
I never consider my tattoos when getting dressed, they’re part of me. My friends in middle school would have all these lame pictures of blondes and fast cars posted on their wall, I would hang up the girls with tattoos.
People say tattoos aren’t ‘old school’, but they were surprisingly huge during the 1890’s. A lot of the middle and upper class even sported them.
The sideshow performers would avoid getting their hands and necks done though to blend in a bit more with society.
On the Street…..Via Faenza, Florence
Tiffany x The Sartorialist: What Makes Love True Video
Here’s the video capturing our ‘What Makes Love True’ shoot for Tiffany, just in time for Valentines Day…