Category Archives: Ss12

DIY: Cellu-lace clutch

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It was a while ago when Company magazine asked me to lend my DIY skill for their Blogger DIY feature, I believe the May issue is still available in newsagents.  I was very inspired by Simone Rocha SS12 collection, I love their use of lace trims, appliques and conceptual materials that romanticise the whole aesthetic-minimal look.  To create an ideal accessory using the similar elements it would have to be in a form of a clutch bag, an IT bag that everyone will talk about.

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I chose to use a clear sheet of PVC from Borovick Fabrics Ltd, guipure lace from Kleins and clear concealed zip from John Lewis.  Unfortunately I don’t have any magic tricks to show to you but do stay tuned for part 2 in mid June, I’m currently working on a maid of honour dress for myself to wear at my sister’s wedding next month so there’ll be another DIY piece to blog about.

Be sure to check the others too, Charlie May‘s sport luxe top, Christine Leech‘s club Tropicana earrings, and Amy Marks‘s lace collar.

Note to readers:  By popular demand and numerous email requests, I’m now accepting private orders, please email me for price info with the subject line ‘Cellu-lace clutch enquiry’.

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My outfit and prop: Cream top – MARC BY MARC JACOBS. Coral jeans – MARKS & SPENCER. Resin flower rings – TINYISLAND @ ETSY.COM. A bunch of bluebells – freshly slaughtered from my back garden in N14.

High Class Robbery – Howitz Weissbach SS2012 at Capsule Paris

I met Eva Howitz and Frieder Weissbach from howitzweissbach at Capsule in Paris. Fresh noblesse is what they do and for their look book shoot they simply collected some random wood – how easy does that sound. But that’s their attitude which goes hand in hand with what they think: “There is too much pretending in the fashion world, everything is made more important than it actually is. Just look at our shoulders

Inspired by fairy tales, howitzweissbach’s Spring / Summer 2012 collection High Class Robbery, featuring a lot of volume and transparency, shows vulnerability through silk organza-shrouded backs and and strength through voluminous fronts. “The feminine back is the most beautiful part of a body, it’s so elegant,” they explain.

Using little but high-quality textiles such as light silk-cotton weave, silk organza as well as air-treated cotton batiste, they produce unique designs locally and under socially responsible conditions and “always work with strong primary colours, but at the moment we believe in green,” Eva smiles.  In addition to the collections, howitzweissbach also produce a line of shoes and accessories including socks, bags and scarves.


© STYLECLICKER - High Class Robbery – Howitz Weissbach SS2012 at Capsule Paris is a post from: www.styleclicker.net

HK visual diary: Yellow lust

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Beautiful isn’t it? No, I meant the canary yellow colour not the shoes! I spotted those gorgeous pair at Tory Burch SS12 press day, the pop of yellow looks delicious to eat.  Fruity.

HK visual diary: It’s MCM again

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Now that I’m back at home in London, welcomed by the blast of cold Arctic wind on my arrival, so cold that I had to wrap my face and head with two woollen cardigans grabbed from my suitcase.  I looked like a retard.  However, there are plenty of back log HK posts to catch up on before LFW commence on the 17th, so please bare with me.

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MCM is no stranger to HK’s cosmopolitan scene typically the monogram rucksacks which I’d seen on numerous occasions in Causeway Bay, Wan Chai, Central and Sheung Wan. If lucky, on press days and showroom visits too.  There were times I wanted to tap on their shoulders and ask for their style shots but feared for my British gibberish nonsense.

Thank you Rosa Zhang of MCM (Asia) for showing me around at press day.  Please do check out my contributed guest post on the MCM blog.

HK visual diary: Killing weapon

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These Sam Edelman‘s encrusted Chameleon-like killer heels are perfect weaponry to lure preys on multiple dates.  Appetising and lethal.

HK visual diary: I’m in Monki heaven

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Upon my arrival at Monki SS12 press day my jaw dropped to the ground, dripping with nose bleed and waving a stained white handkerchief in silly despair, I surrender! I so want to steal all the Monki samples and mascots under my arms (including the hangers) and discreetly leave the building.  The SS12 collection is ferociously cute, comes in 4 themes – California Dancing, Nautical But Nice, Step Into The Jungle and Suprematist Move…my favourite.  I was very fortunate to meet the Monki Concept Manager Yvonne Da Silva (a fellow Swede and Chinese herself), so lovely in fact our casual conversation lasted…well, it could last a lifetime.  I’m very looking forward to their first stand alone store opening on Carnaby Street, London on February!  Can’t wait to splurge, woohoo!

3.1 Phillip Lim ss12

3.1 Phillip Lim

PASTELS. OK, can we just fast forward to next season please?! Phillip Lim’s s/s 12 collection is right up my alley and pretty much sums up all the colors I want to wear this spring. Can’t wait for the never ending winter to be over!!

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Sweet like bon bons

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Upon my arrival at Kurt Geiger SS12 press day at their posh address in Mayfair, a very seasidey confectionary-like footwear collection gave me a severe sugar rush, surrounded by all textures and flavoured ingredients – 1950s pastel coloured bon bons, hints of candy floss tones and infectious cute bows. It’s clearly diabetic and I’ve already made my summer wish list.

HPR is my playground

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HPR is one of the most visited PR showrooms since our close friendship began mid last year, we share the same connection of small industry friends and of whom we worked with before.  The showroom fills with cool abundance of designers collections is pretty much a private playground for me it’s my safe haven, with Maggie a quiet French (mix) Bull Terrier in attendance (HPR’s resident dog) happily occupy a busy blogger when browsing rails of samples.  Thanks Maggie.

I shall leave you with my hot picks for SS12.

hpr008 Borne by Elise Berger SS12.
hpr001 Left: Melissa shoes SS12.  Right: Maggie.
hpr005 Marina Qureshi SS12.
hpr002 Eugene Lin SS12.
hpr003 Liz Black SS12.
hpr007 Sophie Gittins SS12.

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hpr011 Paul & Joe Sisters SS12.
hpr012 Paul & Joe Men SS12.
hpr013 Amber Sakai SS12.
hpr004 I.D. Sarrieri SS12.

When you can’t get enough of Swedish Hasbeens

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Can’t help but drooling over Swedish Hasbeens shoes at VARG‘s showroom earlier today, various styles in flawless stitching details adjoining each other prettily in every corner of the room, the shoes are handmade from natural grain leather and wood, I hear you could bury the shoes in your garden!  Aren’t they adorable?

Texture Splatter

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I rarely pull my troublesome camera out on press days or showroom visits unless I see something that appeals to me and my blog itself, but when temptation lurks at Goodley PR press day I surrendered, I can’t help but falling head over heels in love and bringing applause to Leutton Postle‘s (Jenny Postle and Sam Leutton) colourful-intricate knitwear collection.  The Africa inspired patterns and whimsical mess shows vast array of surface textiles in textures; crochet, mesh, fringing, print and patchwork, no wonder the collection has snapped up by prestigious boutique Browns Focus.

Leutton Postle SS 2012

By guest writer Melanie Pierucci Bolliger from Artists in Wonderland: The Leutton Postle knitwear collection at the Fashion Scout show at Freemasons Hall on was like a breath of fresh air. The collection by Central Saint Martin graduates Sam Leutton and Jenny Postle delivered knitwear in a completely new spectrum.

Colourful without being exhausting on the eye, the patchwork was a personal favourite. The collection was organic without bordering on hippie and whimsical without being kitsch. Reminiscent of Native-American costumes it was presented in a modern and relaxed manner.

Colours were earthly and soft including pastel blues, greens and yellows complimented beige and white canvases.

The pieces were loose and easy, with a somewhat ethereal quality, which broke away from the usual association of knits too cozy. Instead, Leutton Postle‘s collection felt fresh and light.

The fact that the pieces were handmade and the complex details elevated the knits to a couture status. The collection proved itself a happy marriage between technique and creativity and was very well received.


© STYLECLICKER - Leutton Postle SS 2012 is a post from: www.styleclicker.net

Towards the Flame – Jordan Askill SS 2012

Jordan Askill Spring Summer 2012

Australian-Born Jordan Askill presented his third collection of jewellery and sculptures at London Fashion Week called ‘Towards The Flame – The Force of Navigation’.

Interested in collaborations with artists and creatives from different fields, this is another collaboration with ethical coloured gemstone producer Gemfields. Reflecting the strength and purity of the amethyst stone and exploring the process of raw crystal carving, each piece is a marriage of hand crafted craftsmanship and digital technological advances.

Jordan Askill SS 2012

Jordan Askill SS 2012

The honed sculptural artworks are modern and wearable yet show a refreshing exaggeration. Inspired by serene idealism of the Emerald Buddha, the pieces are to be worn as natural armour, a physical interpretation of calm and well being. “I designed these pieces to reflect the strength and purity of the stone, working with Gemfields allows my process and final product to protect the environment and stay true to nature,” Jordan Askill explains his approach to design that we much appreciate.

Jordan Askill SS 2012

Adding to the original motifs of heart and stars are flames, intertwined hearts and broken hearts, the silhouette of the moon and letter rings spelling ‘FLAME’. The collection also features a re-interpreted version of his ‘Horse Wave’ jewellery box in amethyst coloured resin.

Intercepted Swallow With Amethyst Brooch

Opening Swallow Corcage

Jordan Askill developed his own RTW label whilst working as fashion designer at Ksubi back in Sydney, his hometown, and has won the first Prize Grand Marnier Design Award for Fashion Excellence. Jordan then moved to Paris for three years to work at Dior Homme.

Pouncing Panther Cuff

 

Swallow Heart – Hand Carved Amethyst With Diamonds

His Autumn / Winter 2011 ‘Migration; A Sense of Larger Purpose’ collection manifested first as a sculpture, created from resin to mimic white ceramic. Her wings differ in shape and size, frozen in time, and following the silhouette of a waterfall.

Headdress from the AW 2011 collection ‘Migration; A Sense of Larger Purpose’

 

Jordan Askill AW 2011


© STYLECLICKER - Towards the Flame – Jordan Askill SS 2012 is a post from: www.styleclicker.net

Burberry Prorsum Spring Summer 2012

Burberry Prorsum Spring / Summer 2012 womenswear show

Burberry Prorsum surprised with a rather wintery Spring / Summer 2012 collection shown in Hyde Park at London Fashion Week. It was beautiful nevertheless.

Burberry Prorsum Spring / Summer 2012 womenswear show

Handcrafted was the topic and it showed throughout the collection on items such as the Whipstichbags, large tote bags, oversize clutch bags, small clutch bags, metal framed sling bags. Croco appeared next to raffia and crepe de coco to create an elaborated tension.

Burberry Prorsum Spring / Summer 2012 womenswear show

Designer Christopher Bailey introduced a new, high-waisted silhouette, playful, feminine and romantic at the same time. It seems as if he was thinking about beauty and holidays, continuing the feel of the Burberry Prorsum Spring / Summer Menswear collection. No should ever say Burberry can only do trench.

Burberry Prorsum Spring / Summer 2012 womenswear show

Burberry Prorsum Spring / Summer 2012 womenswear show

Handcrafted beaded and knitted crotchet collars, artisan raffia collars, wooden geometric applications, hand draped gathered silk organza and woven nappa leather strings showed attention to detail and some couture elements.

Burberry Prorsum Spring / Summer 2012 womenswear show

Burberry Prorsum Spring / Summer 2012 womenswear show

In terms of accessories, apart from the bags, it was mostly about sandals: There were woven wedge sandals, woven platform sandals, beaded platform sandals, woven wedge peep toe boots, crochet wedge peep toe pumps, pompom raffia caps, corset belts, waist belts and beautiful and fun hand stitched leather cord sunglasses.

Burberry Prorsum Spring / Summer 2012 womenswear show

Burberry Prorsum Spring / Summer 2012 womenswear show

It was given a retro feel through the colouring with shades in orange ocre, beetroot, chrome yellow, sapphire blue, chocolate, and turmenic underlined with music such as ‘I Put a Spell On You’ by Jeff Beck featuring Joss Stone, ‘My sweet Lord’ by George Harrison and ‘Everlasting Love’ by U2.

Burberry Prorsum Spring / Summer 2012 womenswear show

Burberry Prorsum Spring / Summer 2012 womenswear show

The finale this time didn’t feature snowflakes but an explosion of bright, colourful, shiny paper chips while Kill it Kid sung ‘Taste The Rain’. An exotic burberryesque dream.

Burberry Prorsum Spring / Summer 2012 womenswear show finale

Here some front row pictures for all you VIP lovers.

Kanye West and Sienna Miller

Sienna Miller, Gemma Arterton and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Mario Testino


© STYLECLICKER - Burberry Prorsum Spring Summer 2012 is a post from: www.styleclicker.net

YSL’s cropped double-breasted trouser suit. A great…



YSL’s cropped double-breasted trouser suit. A great next-summer choice for any age or body shape

An ultra-soft pink shirt is a surprisingly versatile addition to…



An ultra-soft pink shirt is a surprisingly versatile addition to a capsule wardrobe. This Givenchy one would work with any number of neutral tailoring options for the working day yet is dressy and feminine enough for evening too. We would switch the ultra stretchy pants for a less clingy pair in a darker shade or a super-strict pencil skirt and snake-print court shoes.

Ellen Von Unwerth at Chanel SS12. What do we love more – the…



Ellen Von Unwerth at Chanel SS12. What do we love more - the hair, t te tuxedo shirt or the matching jacket-nail combo?

Dior SS12 looking very The Style Director with sand-hued…



Dior SS12 looking very The Style Director with sand-hued trousers in are our favourite 7/8th proportion that go so well with loafers, lace ups or heels. We also adore the sheer-under-opaque shirting

Shantung trousers and lace-ups at Haider Ackerman SS12?…



Shantung trousers and lace-ups at Haider Ackerman SS12? That’s our summer sorted…

Shantung trousers and lace-ups at Haider Ackerman SS12?…



Shantung trousers and lace-ups at Haider Ackerman SS12? That’s our summer sorted…

One for the ss12 wish list, it’s all about Celine’s…



One for the ss12 wish list, it’s all about Celine’s envelope bags with lush red piping…

One for the ss12 wish list, it’s all about Celine’s…



One for the ss12 wish list, it’s all about Celine’s envelope bags with lush red piping…

One of our favourite Dries Van Noten looks for next season. Love…



One of our favourite Dries Van Noten looks for next season. Love the whole ensemble offset by the graphic sunglasses

Ready to Board – Liz Black SS 2012, London FW

While sauntering through the designer’s exhibition at London Fashion Week, I came across a small but pretty collection, featuring mostly dresses in aquarelle colours and structural shapes.

Liz Black Spring Summer 2012. Picture: Manuel Bischof

It was Liz Black‘s second ready-to-wear collection, a more grown-up version and the logical followup of her Autumn / Winter ‘Concentric Thoughts‘ one that was inspired by artist Sonia Delaunay, known for her paintings featuring geometric shapes in bright colours.

Pale lilac, white and greys make the reduced colour scheme. Picture: Manuel Bischof

Innovative and daring yet elegant designs. Picture: Manuel Bischof

This season isn’t that far away: Architect Zaha Hadid‘s metal and glass buildings and designs by Markus Benesch have catered major references for the elegant, conceptual work as well as ‘luxurious leather goods, angular design and interiors along with many ideas associated with the concepts of movement, power, travel and speed.’ Crêpe de Chine, double silk, lamb nappa leather, eel skin and duchess satin are the high quality key materials used for these minimalistic statement pieces that come in a reduced colour palette including pale lilac, white and greys.

'The Liz Black woman is sophisticated and cosmopolitan.' All pictures below: Curtis Gibson. Stylist: Sarah-Adiana Butler. Hair Stylist: Haruhide Ishizaki. MUA: Lina Dahibeck

Oh and you have to know that within this white dresses lie about two hundred working hours. Although the built in pyramids embellishing the front sides – called ‘the art pieces’ by the team – are neither big nor small but something undecided in between and it all looks a bit too laboured, I much respect the skills behind this constructed, clean collection. Targeted at the 25- to 45-year-old cosmopolitan woman, the timeless dresses, jackets and trousers are all about the lines, texture and detailing and remain wearable throughout the collection. Venezuela-born Liz Black graduated in Fashion Design (Print) from London’s Central Saint Martins and has worked as print assistant for Diane von Furstenberg in New York and Emilio de la Morena in London. Since launching her own label in 2010 she is undoubtedly one to watch and has won the AKDK’s e-Creative ‘Best Emerging Fashion Designer’ Award amongst others. Hey, even walking fashion doll Lady Gaga got spotted wearing Liz’s ‘Bow Circle Dress’. This I don’t know from her personally, but I had the change to speak to one of her pattern cutters, Alexis Cawley.

Impeccably tailored pieces that complement the feminine silhouette for the modern fashionable women.

Alexis, how was it to work for Liz Black those weeks before London Fashion Week?

It was pretty hectic as you can imagine, but fun. We’ve been working seven days a week for the last month or so but it has been very rewarding.

Which piece of the collection is your favourite and why?

I like the long duchess satin dresses, it is such a beautiful fabric to work with and it holds the geometrical shape really well.

What have you had for breakfast?

Coffee


A minimalistic and elegant aesthetic with an emphasis on structural shapes.

As pattern cutter, how much influence do you have on the design?

As a pattern cutter I’m there to realise the designer’s vision. Having said this, there will inevitably be some influence with regard to shape and proportion as every cutter has their own particular handwriting.

Thank you for your time.

'I think my Latin spirit and my optimism have never let me stop fighting.' - Liz Black

Angularity as a key element.

Sensual and sensible in every way - detachable shoulder piece.

'I was inspired by geometric shapes to develop my collection' - Liz Black

Eel skin trench, the collection's deerest piece.

Retail price ranges from around 300 (shirts) to 1200 (jackets).

Over 200 hours of hours worked on.

Liz Black Spring Summer 2012

See more of Liz Black on her website or on her blog.


© STYLECLICKER - This article is from www.styleclicker.net.

The 1950s In Mind – Bernard Chandran SS 2012, London Fashion Week

By guest writer Gabriel Weil: Bernard Chandran had the 1950s in mind. In a tribute to his mother, he revisited a time in which people “took every effort to be fashionable.”

Bernard Chandran Spring Summer 2012

Bernard Chandran Spring Summer 2012

The collection showed structured curvy cocktail dresses that were skillful interpretations of the dresses from the era. The designer managed to dust off retro feelings by constructing the dresses from innovative patterns, at time with shrunken proportions, other times with cutouts and peekaboo detailing.

Bernard Chandran Spring Summer 2012

Bernard Chandran Spring Summer 2012

Matching giant bags were paired with some of the pieces, and although they were slightly odd, they kept the styling away from the obvious choice of clutches.

Bernard Chandran Spring Summer 2012

The palette was of muted metallics (gold, champagne and silver), grey and touches of green, turquoise and apple green. Some pieces were embroidered, but nothing that deviated from cut, the main attraction of this show by Chandran.

Bernard Chandran Spring Summer 2012


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Meaningfully Cubed – Georgia Hardinge SS 2012, London FW

This was to be my last womenswear SS 2012 show at London Fashion Week and the most astonishing I’ve seen all week. Georgia Hardinge‘s ‘Cubed’ collection made sense in every aspect and this fell into place in an astonishing catwalk presentation. I’m ravished to have finished my day off in such a heart-warming way.

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Clearly referring to the cubist movement, the collection features a predominant grey tonal palette broken by cyan and orange shown on ankle-length dresses with over-exaggerated waists or white, squared leather minis combined with sheer orange blouses. Largely influenced by the sculptural vision of raymond Duchamp-Villon, Georgia Hardinge also got inspired by the dark nature of cubo-futurism and created architectural pieces flattering the female body presented on plateau ankle boots with wooden heels. Love, love, love this non-minimalistic minimalsm.

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

If Gucci has justifiably been accused to steal LFW models I don’t know. But these models here, styled by Aldene Johnson and wearing their hair in square buns, were perfectly casted with the collection in mind: Whether it was redheaded beauties mirroring the print’s colours or dark-skinned ones giving the shades moore depth, they all seemed to melt in with the clothes as if naturally grown together.

If you scroll down all the way you’ll see where Georgia Hardinge had been last season – and be amazed by what she has grown into in just half a year’s time.

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Georgia Hardinge Spring Summer 2012

Let’s recall where Georgia Hardinge had been last season – I’m sorry about the quality of the pictures, I am a shit photographer – and be amazed by what she has grown into in just half a year’s time:

Georgia Hardinge Autumn Winter 2011

Georgia Hardinge Autumn Winter 2011

Georgia Hardinge Autumn Winter 2011

Georgia Hardinge Autumn Winter 2011

Georgia Hardinge Autumn Winter 2011

Georgia Hardinge Autumn Winter 2011


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A Celebration Of Sensual Femininity – Belle Sauvage SS 2012

By guest writer Melanie Pierucci Bolliger of Artist in Wonderland: Christian Neuman and Virginia Ferreira under their brand Belle Sauvage presented their fourth collection at the Old Sorting Office. It was a celebration of sensual femininity inspired by Hollywood silent movies of the 1920s.

Belle Sauvage Spring Summer 2012

It was difficult to connect the collection to the 1920s. One would automatically think of flapper dresses, black and white, Chaplin, and boyish haircuts –this collection was anything but boyish. Nonetheless it was a stunning ensemble of intricately made dresses.

Flowing versus structured garments combined with a bright colour palette created a sexy set of strong, curve-celebrating pieces.

Elegance did not compromise the fun factor of the collection. The bright colours and vibrant prints added a touch of noise and party to the otherwise quiet pieces. Yellow, magenta, mint green, and lilac were the protagonists this season, accentuated by the combination of solid versus print elements.

Elaborate details such as beautifully made pleats connected the ethereal to the more tailored shapes. This gave the collection a smooth line that was sophisticated and refined.

The fabric selection was another pleasant addition. A contrast of light versus heavy silks played with the strong and soft sides of the collection. Embroidered tulle was a beautiful element as well and the subtle use of leather elements accentuated the Belle Sauvage collection beautifully.


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The Polo Shirt Can Stay At Home – Tom Lipop SS 2012, London FW

LL Cool J’s ‘Something like a phenomenon’ didn’t just make a good acoustic start at their show at London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2012 menswear day but are the right words to describe the newcomers from Tom Lipop.

Tom Lipop Spring Summer 2012

Yeah, we were about to rip off those braided sandals – the model’s feet were too tiny for them anyway. Luxurious fabrics and progressive technical cutting made an all chic, classical and well styled collection with a lot of attention to details. Jil Sander-esque and inspired by historical lineage of British fashion, it is for the modern urban man adjusted to high temperatures. This summer, the polo shirt can stay at home. Just because we might not be pulling off those fur framed coats during summer doesn’t mean we won’t rock that net shirt or those laser cut jumpers with the leather backpacks. To finish off, Missy Elliot instructed: ‘Work it!’ Hell yeah, we will.

Tom Lipop Spring Summer 2012

Tom Lipop Spring Summer 2012

Tom Lipop Spring Summer 2012

Tom Lipop Spring Summer 2012

Tom Lipop Spring Summer 2012

Tom Lipop Spring Summer 2012

Tom Lipop Spring Summer 2012

Tom Lipop Spring Summer 2012

Tom Lipop Spring Summer 2012

Tom Lipop Spring Summer 2012

Tom Lipop Spring Summer 2012


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Three Different Views Of The Season – Ashley Isham SS 2012, London FW

By guest writer Gabriel Weil: First day of London Fashion week, with an 8pm presentation at the pleasant Il Bottacio at Grosvenor Place, Ashley Isham‘s collection showed three different views of the season.

Ashley Isham Spring Summer 2012

First came the draped jersey with artisanal embellishment. The gummy bean coloured material came gilded with foiled metallic leather, rococo-insipired swirly leather cutouts and some metallic embroideries which provided and artisanal feel to the pieces.

Ashley Isham Spring Summer 2012

Ashley Isham Spring Summer 2012

Ashley Isham Spring Summer 2012

Ashley Isham Spring Summer 2012

In a second segment paisley appeared in a flat, reduced print in floaty chiffon, a different weight of fabric and a different approach.

Ashley Isham Spring Summer 2012

Ashley Isham Spring Summer 2012

Ashley Isham Spring Summer 2012

White dresses in guipure lace with embroidered accents finished the presentation with another change of direction. Throughout the show’s lengths and techniques were diverse, but they all seemed to cater for tanned skin, hot weather and strong personalities. Veil headpieces that resembled Lacroix brides completed the look, making us think if maybe an exotic beach-side wedding had inspired Isham this season.

Ashley Isham Spring Summer 2012


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Street Style at Menswear Day Part II – London Fashion Week

All images by Manuel Bischof

Photographer: Manuel Bischof


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Lou Dalton SS 2012 – London Fashion Week

Last night, after having worked until 11pm we felt like unwinding and Fashion Week Closing Party seemed like a good idea.

Lou Dalton SS 2012. All images: Roger Dean at Catwalking.com

Because Mayfair felt too far to go to, we headed to the Lou Dalton after party at the Eastbloc that, honestly, was a bit on the shabby side. The so-called free drinks included one single small beer (no, I still don’t drink beer, sorry) and after the one everyone had left and the floor sweeper asked us to leave. So much to that. At least, for once this week, I got enough sleep. Nevertheless, Lou Dalton‘s collection is to be looked at and for me it incorporates the perfect mix of two cities: London and Paris. Which both are fashion metropoles after all.

Lou Dalton Spring Summer 2012

Lou Dalton Spring Summer 2012

As we read in the press release ‘the Lou Dalton Spring Summer 2012 collection finds inspiration from two seemingly contrasting principal sources; the harshness and desperation of the 1984 Miners’ Strike, and Matthew Bourne’s menacing male ensemble in Swan Lake. Yet both are symbolic struggles, whether it be the demise of the National Union of Miners, or the rise of the swan.

Lou Dalton Spring Summer 2012

Lou Dalton Spring Summer 2012

The colour palette carries these influences heavily; black, navy, camel and cream combine with flashes of shot orange and emerald green stemming from the picket line melees. Conversely, other pieces are more subtle and in keeping with the Ashington Group’s portrayal of colliery life. The garments embrace their contrast in inspirations blending hard-wearing denim and Macintosh with delicate silk, cotton voile, and cotton anglais. The principal themes are also executed through bold prints drawing on the rawness of wood cut prints by the Pittman painters, to the finesse and decadence of crystal embellishments. Most dramatically heavily frayed denim has been used to emulate Bourne’s ballet.’

Lou Dalton Spring Summer 2012

Lou Dalton Spring Summer 2012

Also, they are holding a special personal order evening today at The Smokehouse together with Omar Kashoura:

Lou Dalton/Omar Kashoura personal order evening

Lou Dalton/Omar Kashoura personal order evening


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Don’t Ask What The World Needs / Aquascutum SS 2012 – London Fashion Week

Don’t ask what the world needs. Ask what makes you come alive, and go do it. Because what the world needs is people who have come alive - Howard Thurman

Aquascutum presents the SS12 menswear collection at London Fashion Week on September 21st

Yesterday at London Fashion Week’s menswear day Joanna Sykes presented an uplifting sense of British optimism for Aquascutum Spring Sommer 2012. It is her second season for the house that was founded in 1851 to provide stylish protection from the unpredictable British weather. Think shower-proofing wools and rain repellent cloth.

The Design Director across menswear, womenswear and accessories focused on immaculately cut tailored pieces with a long and lean silhouette. The cotton parkas, bonded cotton duffle coats and suede and leather trench coats are casual and come in icey pale tonals: cool and muted neutrals, with accents of optic white and black.

Aquascutum (latin for water shield) uses wool, mohair and silk that have been developed exclusively with English mills in Yorkshire and Somerset to keep the Englishness real. Corresponding handkerchiefs and ties in reworked archive designs worn with shirts in cotton voiles and piquets complete the tailored ensemble. Mr. Englishman, you will be looking flash this season.


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Street Style at Menswear Day / Part I – London Fashion Week SS2012

All images by Manuel Bischof


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Mr. Start SS 2012 – London Fashion Week

By guest writer Saskia Reis: The last day of London Fashion Week led us into Mr. Start´s redefinition of French girls in a masculine way.

Mr Start SS 2012. All pictures by Saskia Reis

At St. Martins Lane Hotel, Philip Start showcased his SS 2012 menswear collection in a totally felicitous real time installation. Buyers and journalists could examine lightweight cotton and linen fabrics, softly tailored cuts and the overall visual appearance of the designs in an authentic, yet surreal museum-ish approach. The designer´s colour palette includes khaki, stone, sand and indigo, as well as an updated classic collection of greys and blues. The show was acoustically accompanied by Bolivian Baroque, recognising the plight of the rainforests.

Mr Start SS 2012

With his refreshing and inspiring presentation style, Philip Start underlined his contemporary and forward looking point of view. Just as effortlessly as the look of his creations, the designer took the time for a little chat with us to characterise his work: “It is all about a fashionable elegance, which is being shown in an easy, yet sophisticated way.Start was inspired by the peachiness of French girls, also sharing that “not many people know that my main theme is architecture. I am totally into the effortless simplicity of modern buildings.”

Mr Start SS 2012


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A Psychedelic Use Of Colour – Fred Butler SS 2012

An explosion of colours occurred when Fred Butler showcased her Spring Summer 2012 collection ‘Sonic Sinuate Supertemporal Sequestador’ in her first live presentation showcasing her first commercial line on Sunday at Somerset House.

Fred Butler SS 2012 presentation. The shoes are a collaboration with artist Rosy Nicholas. All images by Manuel Bischof

Continuing her iconoclastic approach to accessories and psychedelic use of colour, props stylist Fred Butler teamed up with amazing Patrick Wolf who did an exclusive four-part sound installation facilitating Fred’s idea of multisensory fashion featuring sound, mood, texture and colour. Colour is ‘the first thing I think about when I wake up. It’s not a forced decision. There’s no logical pattern, it’s not seasonal, it’s just a feeling I have. Sometimes the colour doesn’t come and I have to sit in my dressing-gown and wait for it, which is annoying if I have to be somewhere.’ says Fred about getting dressed in the Telegraph Magazine.

Fred Butler SS 2012

Inspired by the forms and fluid movements of creatures that shed their outer shell to reveal luminescent bodies, the collection, styled by Kim Howells, is made of dramatic, voluminous pieces with twisted, ruffled and telescoped circular swirls on hand painted silk.

Fred Butler SS 2012. Organic forms in stark contrast to the angular conformity of previous seasons.

We remember the geometric forms from the fashion film directed by Elisha Smith-Leverock and also styled by Kim Howells showing her Autumn Winter collection ‘Incandescent Meta-morph-incessant’ – fluorescent origami indeed. Now it’s all about organic shapes, that’s Fred Butler‘s idea of Spring Summer.

Fred Butler AW 2011

Fred Butler AW 2011

Fred Butler AW 2011


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A Thousand and One Cheers for Spijkers en Spijkers – SS 2012

By guest writer Ramona Deckers: Spijkers en Spijkers surely did their name justice, as they absolutely ‘nailed’ their SS 2012 show, inspired by the tale of Scheherazade: an exotic Persian queen and chronicler of the fairytale, One Thousand and One Nights.

Spijkers en Spijkers SS 2012

Scheherazade is known to be a wise and witty woman for she certainly knows how to woe her king and keep him interested. The collection does not beg to differ on that department, as their work is intelligent, mysterious and sultry.

Spijkers en Spijkers SS 2012

The collection howls seduction and femininity in a ‘fairytaley’ setting playing Arabic and gloomy tunes in the background. Spijkers en Spijkers are often compared to Viktor en Rolf as being their female equivalent, I can only agree and say that I am very pleased about spotting Dutch talent at international fashion shows. Twin sisters Truus and Riet are hardly considered fish out of water, as they participated in many a successful show in London Fashion Week history.

Spijkers en Spijkers SS 2012

The designs in the collection are of Oriental geometric heritage, which is quite the opposite of what they have done before (they have incorporated western influences in previous collections). It is a way of bringing different worlds together. The already unforgettable duo has rebelled against naff preconceptions of femininity in awe of portraying the modern woman as a confident and independent one. Hail to the sisters.

Spijkers en Spijkers SS 2012

Rhombus patterns attached to evening gowns followed by over-sized satin jackets and man-trousers in soft tones give it an elegant and alluring, yet masculine tone. Colours such as, yellow, crystal pink, coral and blue contrast the soft tones. It looks lenient but very powerful. The basics such as, beige, ivory, lime and black make the tenors of the collection. ‘The Penrose figures are Ancient Arabic but translated in a modern way by using materials like techno linen, cotton lurex, silk twill and cotton blends’. The stars on the dresses surely indicate that the imminent night is upon us as dawn has broken indeed…

Spijkers en Spijkers SS 2012


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Unconditional SS 2012 by Philip Stevens – London Fashion Week

By Saskia Reis: London, My Beautiful Fashion. Today, London Fashion Week reveled in Unconditional, as Philip Stevens presented his SS 2012 collection in a salon runway show, produced by My Beautiful City.

Unconditional SS 2012 by Philip Stevens. All images by Saskia Reis

Muted tones were followed by strong signal colours, just before returning to more contrasting shades in terra, black and white. With his slick combination of colours and fabrics, the designer proved his craft to create looks which flatter male and female in the same way.

Unconditional SS 2012 by Philip Stevens.

Stevens brilliantly teamed up with super talented Una Burke who gave his creations an leathern accessory finish. After the show, Stevens (who by the way is really friendly, down-to-earth and just radiates genuine charm) told us that he took his inspiration from a Mancunian´s Midsummer Night´s Dream. “There were different sections within the dream,” he smirked, hinting at the variety of the show, which included a precollection Unconditional made this season that was also showcased on the catwalk. We are in love!

Unconditional SS 2012 by Philip Stevens.

Unconditional SS 2012


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David David Pop Up Store Launch – London

By Melanie Pierucci Bolliger: After running around thinking I would never make it on time through the hectic schedule of London Fashion Week, I had the pleasure of stopping by David David’s store in Monmouth Street to look at his new collection.

At the David David Pop Up Store Launch. All images by John Merlino

I expected to see a fashion event but ended up with the feeling of being in the middle of an art gallery that one of my friends would set up in their living room: The atmosphere was laid-back and allowed for a more intimate appreciation of the collection.

At the David David Pop Up Store Launch.

His basic T-shirts and T-shirt dresses were ripped out of the mundane by the graphic works hugging their threads creating beautiful modern art. Colourful geometry in a slightly cubist-meets-op-art sort of style was the main theme in the room. A refreshing and solid colour palette of uncomplicated and unpretentious shapes compensated for the lack of intricate garment construction.

At the David David Pop Up Store Launch.

The eye-catching prints did not stop with clothing. Umbrellas, puff-chairs and other accessories were complimented by the colourful theme.


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Colour Me Beautiful – Emilia Wickstead’s debut at London Fashion Week

A Central Saint Martins contemporary of David Koma and Peter Turner, Emilia Wickstead likes to focus on her customer and keep her shows intimate and formal, like an old-fashioned atelier presentation rather than a spotlight-grabbing front row.

Emilia Wickstead's SS12 collection writes a poetic rendition of a begone era.

However, her show this afternoon pulled the cream of fashion writers into the Connaught to see an appropriately ice cream-coloured confection of day dresses, baby dolls, teeny weeny rompers and silky shirt dresses that catered to both her va va voom customer and to the more demure, grown-up, Duchess of Cambridge types.

The collection renders a romantic palette of dusky rose, warm cream and golden yellow shades.

Born in New Zealand, Emilia has mastered quintessentially English sex appeal, with languid plissé silk dresses featuring sweet prints of Parisian landmarks, and stiff pleated raffia fabric concertina-ing around the thigh. Somehow it avoided being overtly girly, despite the pale palette and feminine shapes – and a dash of Manolo colour at on the foot of each lithe leg proved that the Emilia Wickstead woman is not as passive as she may first appear.

'Colour Me Beautiful' collection by Emilia Wickstead


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Tropical Constructivism – Basso & Brooke SS12

A journey by car, from London to Beijing, set the base for the Basso & Brooke Spring / Summer 2012 collection. ‘Driving for weeks in the relentless Siberian twilight, admits its bleak and brutal landscape, the formal foundations for this collection’s prints were laid.’

Basso & Brooke Spring / Summer 2012, styled by Namalee Bolle. All images: Manuel Bischof

The pioneers of digital print managed once more to allure us with their luscious colour palette on flowing sheer silk. The bright and organic leaves and plant prints on knee- and ankle-length dresses contrasted to the earthy off-colours shown in geometric forms. Like a colourful breath of nothing the dresses lapped around the model’s moving bodies, and even combined with a sleeveless blazer couldn’t be any more feminine.

Spacial play: flat graphic prints transformed into deft drapes.

All jewellery was bright and big and consisted of ring elements one inside another, exclusively created by Borba. Held in white and light grey shades, the Make-Up by Mel Arter stayed discreetly, whereas the hair by Kenna (GHD) made a statement through a messy beach style. With the high-end technique of the cuts and prints together with the soundtrack by L Flajore, Basso & Brooke led us to distant places and produced some highly itchy feet.

Hard, angular lines, sharp contrasts and strong structures.


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Minimarket SS12 – MERCEDES-BENZ FASHIONWEEK STOCKHOLM (Sponsored Post)

One of my favorite shows yesterday was Minimarket. The Stockholm based label is run by sisters Sofie, Jennifer and Pernilla and is a true fashion success story: founded in 2006, it was awarded as “best new designer of the year” by Swedish Elle in 2007 and “best designer of the year” for both 2009 collections.

The SS12 collection was inspired by Egyptian goddess Isis, Cleopatra and Nefertiti…

Platforms with rounded soles and structured surface in different color variations looked amazing!

Thin materials in dusty and faded colors as well as patterns that are inspired by Egypt flora are characteristics of this collection.


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A Seventies summer of fun – Mulberry Pre SS 2012 Collection

Mulberry has hit the beach for Spring Summer 2012, and we’re piling into our retro caravans for a Seventies summer of fun.

Spring Summer 2012 Ready to Wear takes our favourite summer styles and combines them with light-hearted detailing such as love hearts, the signature Love and Peace motif and pier light-inspired luxe gemstones.

Inspired by the great British seaside – piers, arcades, donkey rides and sticks of rock – the new season borrows the fanciful fun of Carry On Camping and fuses it with plenty of eclectic Mulberry charm, luxe detailing and kiss-me-quick chic. Add to that rolling English meadows, nostalgic Scouts and Brownies uniforms and the vivid brights of pansies, dandelions and daffodils, and what you have is a season of colour, classic British summers and camping cool.

There are retro shapes galore, with full skirts, playsuits, uniform-inspired shirts and prom dresses creating two strong silhouettes: transitional utility chic and innocent full-skirted femininity.

Super-washed denim, luxurious silk and delicate broderie anglaise are all stand-out fabrics for this season of relaxed summer fun.

The Spring Summer 2012 collection is based around a gorgeous palette of new neutrals inspired by the seaside, with Pebbled Beige, Fudge, Summer Khaki and Marshmallow White, complemented by the earthier tones of Bitter Brown, Fox Brown, Chocolate, Nightshade Blue and Foggy Grey. Flashes of Candy Pink, Grass Green and Hot Fuchsia provide the splashes of accent colour.

Styles are easy-breezy: full skirts, cinched-in waists and vintage-inspired high-neck prom styles are perfect for balmy evenings.

Other pieces focus on versatile classics, be they butter-soft leather bikers (one piece is glammed up with the season’s sparkling pier light gemstones), short trenches or lightweight rain slicker macs.

Our seasonal prints continue to provide a Mulberry signature and for this pre-collection they are more beautiful than ever. Bonkers Beach is a photographic montage featuring the unique Mulberry take on all things beside the seaside – on a miniature scale. And of course, when you think of the beach, you think of candy stripes, so the new Stripy Straws is a vibrantly linear take on that tradition: Stripy Straws makes an appearance on pieces from the Ready to Wear and Soft Accessories collections. And don’t forget the donkey rides: everybody’s favourite seaside friend features on the super-soft sweatshirts, tote bag and dogwear.

The luxury concoction of Nightshade Coated Cotton and functional styling in the Zip Pocket Mac makes it an easy, statement cover-up if you’re caught in those inevitable April showers.


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